Intake Manifold
I used;

  • DC5R intake manifold
  • K-Tuned Coolant Block off plate (and installed the CTS on it)
  • DC5R 62mm throttle body
  • Stock Honda Intake Manifold & Throttlebody - from JDMYard

coolant block off

Coolant Block off plate - no gasket goo used but if it leaks, look into it. I assume leaks are due to fitment as it was finniky but mine did not leak

The installation procedure is simple with no real confusions, just pop them all into place and you should be good to go. The injector setup was spoken about in another post. I did not run any intake piping as that was to be sorted out at the shop.

intake manifold

All OEM - cheap & reliable

Exhaust System
I used;

  • PLM K-Swap headers (Stacked Y style)
  • Stock Honda Manifold Gasket

It bolted right on without worries, do note that this car will be towed to Hume mufflers for a header-back system. So this was to mainly size out how it will fit with the shifters, more on it below. Do note that I actually had a choice of two headers here, I initially had PLM 4-2-1 Tri-Y headers but it was really close to the steering rack and there would definitely be contact if I did a launch. The engine was installed on the lowest setting as well for hood-clearance (easier to engineer, lower centre of gravity) and it was still dangerously close. I didn’t want it to bang on the rack so I got some PLM headers that BYP has customised according to the seller - they were cut and extended a little so unsure how much of an issue it will be in terms of power but this is a mild build anyway so not concerned about that.

headers

Flat headers installed - banging on the subframe instead of the steering rack (take note of existing bangs, free clearance LMAO)

I didn’t take picture of them installed but they offered various benefits;

  • Bangs on the subframe instead of the steering rack - seems like contact is inevitable but this is the lesser of two evils. One day I’ll probably have to take it to an exhaust shop and get them pulled or cut and extended but thats for later
  • Lower overall - allows for better clearance and probably less heat dissipation on the shifting system

Shifting system
I used;

  • Hybrid Racing No-Cut shifter V1 - picked it up for something like 300 used, came with extra delrin bushings for the system which I intend to refresh and re-grease later down the line
  • DC5R shifting cables - these cost me like $150 used, kind of ridiculous but the whole market is, COVID and all
  • Hybrid Racing Shifter Cable

New shifters cost like $600 used for two metal wires so I just went with what worked, I think you might get shifter slop if its a shagged unit but mine worked fine. You can probably get the Hybrid Racing Delrin inserts to freshen it up and detent springs as well but I want to feel em as mother nature intended first before making any changes. The adjustment on the V1 units is not as good as the V2 units, and I heard the V1 units break as well, the old owner had already re-welded the weak point because he was a bit meticulous. We met up around Bankstown for the pickup and ended up spinning yarn for an hour chatting shit about K-Swaps, really chill bloke. The older Honda guys are a bit less strung out then the usual westie lot who think they have shit to prove, banging rev-limiters on straight piped D-Series. Maybe thats why Yonas is always sounds stern on the phone - dealing with em for a decade plus.

shifter

This picture has the old headers - notice lack of space for midpipe, hence using the headers in the above picture

The gate on the shifter is so close, and I might return it to stock - mis-shifting is a real risk on this. The install is simple as well, all the hardware was there and it just requires two extra holes being drilled in the tunnel to mount the box from underneath. Do note that I plan on wrapping the shield (sticky taped in the picture) with heatwrap because the exhaust system is sure to get hot.